Lemons are luscious. The trees are lush looking in the landscape. One bonus is that lemons are one of the easier citrus to grow successfully. A plethora of lemons can be easily preserved in many ways – that’s a topic for Savor the Southwest, like crafting this lemony “adult beverage.”
Overview of Lemons
Lemon trees come in several species. This means that if you tried growing lemon once, but it didn’t work, then you may have success with a different lemon with different genes. That said, the care is mostly the same – it’s the tolerance of soils, heat, and most importantly the tolerance to cold that differs. Yes, the fruit shape and flavor differs somewhat as well.

Most citrus are tropical in origin, so do not take kindly to freezing temperatures. Over the centuries, the human race has bred a few citrus varieties that are hardy to 10F, but they are the exception rather than the rule. When deciding to plant a lemon tree, look at how cold and hot it gets in your yard. Next consider how much fussing you want to do over your lemons when it gets cold, or in the heat of summer. Don’t forget to consider just how much lemon your family will eat.
Cold Hardiness
This term refers to the plant itself and its ability to withstand cold. It’s what those USDA zones are all about. It talks about what leaves and stems and trunk experience. It considers the ability of the plant to tolerate cold – and how much cold. The citrus fruit itself will be damaged by freezing temperatures. Longer than 6 hours of temperatures below 32F means the fruit of the lemon may develop frost damage.

The official temperature in your city may be very different from what a tree in your yard experiences. If you live near the base of a mountain, cold air falls and your yard can freeze without posted frost warnings. Microclimate is extremely important to insure citrus success.
Lemon Varieties
The lemons listed below start with the most cold hardy and go to the least. I am referring to the cold tolerance of the entire plant. The fruit itself easily freezes anytime temperature drops below 32F for several hours. If you live in the High Desert, the Meyer lemon is your best choice.

Meyer lemon (Citrus X meyeri), native to China, a cross between a some lemon ancestor and either a mandarin or common orange. Hardy to 20°F. Can be grown in containers. Also the cultivar ‘Improved Meyer.’
Lemandarin, also called Rangpur lime (Citrus X limonia), hybrid between mandarin and lemon, with orange peel and flesh, but lemony flavor. Hardy to 28°F.
Lemon, true lemon (Citrus X limon), hybrid of old breeding. Hardy to 30°F. Three varieties: ‘Butwal,’ ‘Lisbon,’ and ‘Ponderosa’ do well in the low humidity of the Southwest. For containers consider the ‘Variegated Pink’ variety.

Mediterranean sweet lemon (Citrus X limetta), hybrid of Italian breeding started in Roman times. Fruit is shaped somewhat like a tangerine but is yellow when ripe. Hardy to 32°F. Most varieties, such as ‘Femminello Santa Teresa,’ ‘Genoa,’ ‘Limonero Fino,’ or ‘Villa Franca’ do well in the Southwest.
Rootstocks
Citrus listed above are usually grafted onto a disease resistant and/or dwarfing rootstock. The most commonly used rootstock is sour orange, also called trifoliate orange. If your tree freezes and the only part that comes back is from below the graft union, you now have a sour orange tree. At least sour oranges are good for making marmalade, and they make a quite passible “lemonade.” My only issue with these trees is the fact that the trifoliate orange has some long evil thorns.

Pollination
Lemons, even the ones of hybrid origin, are self-fertile and do not require another tree to cross-pollinate.
Grow Lemons
When
Plant citrus in the soil or in containers in early spring. Avoid planting during the heat of summer. Never plant citrus with the crown (point where trunk and roots meet) below the soil line. When in doubt, plant at exactly the same level as the plant is in the pot.

Earth (Soil)
Citrus grows best in a well-drained loam soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5. In much of the Southwest this means adding compost to the soil on a regular basis. Planting trees in tree wells and mulching the roots with cedar bark is one good way to help citrus thrive.
Air (Temperature)
Keep from freezing as discussed above. Also, lemons do not do well in very windy sites. This means if you want a wind break, you will need to select different plants. If it gets much over 110F in your yard for more than a few days at once, consider a piece of shade cloth over your tree(s). Don’t use 90 percent shade, that will cause other problems, but a 30 to 45 percent shade is what many nurseries will use.

Fire (Light)
Full sun is fine. Afternoon shade in Low Desert will mean less stress on the trees. If left to grow in their natural shape, lemons can grow in reflected light – such as near a pool. If you want to prune it into a lollipop, it will suffer sunscald and possibly die in reflected light. Depending on the size of the pool and the size of your yard, a dwarf lemon tree might look mighty fine. More on Planting in Reflected Light.
Water
Lemons require 30 to 40 inches of water per year depending on size and species. Water should be applied to a three foot depth and then allowed to dry somewhat. A thick layer of cedar bark mulch will help hold in moisture, reduce weeds, help acidify the soil, and discourage pests. Keep mulch two to three inches away from the trunk to avoid disease. Renew the mulch as needed.

Fifth Element = Your Care
Fertilizer
Lemons do well with a balanced fertilizer on the three fertilizer holidays – St. Patrick’s Day, Memorial Day, Labor Day. Along with these holidays, lemons appreciates some help setting fruit. You can use a bloom fertilizer when the first flower buds appear. This can be supplemented in mid-June and mid-August with additional applications of citrus or fruiting fertilizer.
A good nutrient rich compost applied all around the tree every spring and watered through to bring the nutrients into the soil is also ideal for long term health and fruit production. Note that it is critical to avoid placing any organic material against the trunk itself. This can cause a number of disease issues. More Citrus Care.
Pruning
Prune only to remove dead wood or suckers sprouting below the graft union. Lemons grow best with their foliage reaching the ground, shading their roots and trunk. Avoid pruning lemon up into a lollipop shape, their trunks are especially susceptible to sun scald and wind burn, plus exposed trunks also are more susceptible to freezing. Prune if branches are rubbing each other or against buildings. After a freeze do not prune a thing until after April first. Often what you may think is dead will recover.

Fruit Thinning
Called “June Drop” in the fruit tree industry, this generally occurs in May in lemons. Up to half of the tiny developing fruits drop off the tree. The tree is self pruning some of the fruit and getting rid of what it can’t support.
It starts earlier than May though. Citrus trees will naturally drop about half of their fertilized flowers during bloom season. That is normal unless leaves are also drooping, in which case it is a sign of stress.
Pest & Disease Problems of Lemons
Alkaline-Induced Iron Chlorosis is a very common problem with in lemons and all citrus in our alkaline soils. The leaves turn yellow, while leaf veins remain green. This is not a disease, rather an inability to pick up the iron that is present in our soil. Treat by acidifying soil. I posted an article on Chlorosis last week – ahead of this topic – just to better guide you. In HLB (below) there are splotches not patterns.

Citrus greening, Huanglongbing (HLB), is of great concern in our area as it can devastate the orchards forever and do billions of dollars in damage. Please purchase your citrus only from a certified and licensed nursery. If you see yellow splotches on your citrus leaves contact your Cooperative Extension Service.
Gummosis is the term for when sap curdles and bubbles out of damaged areas on the trunk and branches. The bark generally gets damaged by sunburn or mulch against the trunk. Remove the curdles and paint with a 10 percent solution of potassium permanganate. Repeat as needed.
Insects
Insects don’t want to kill their food source, thus their harm is generally tolerable for the lemon. Humans have other concepts. I try to leave “bugs” for birds, lizards and other bug eaters to eat.

Most common caterpillars is the dog face, named for the butterfly. The caterpillar looks like a bird dropping. Most homeowners don’t ever notice them, but if you do and they bother you, pluck them off with tweezers, avoiding the red horns they stick out at you, and drop in a bucket of soapy water.

Thrips and aphids, suck sap of young leaves and twigs in spring. Rinse off with a blast from garden hose. They can cause leaf curl which is unsightly. Once the thrips have died off in the summer heat, it is too late to treat and you are left with curly leaves until they drop – in about a year.
Potted citrus indoors may get scale, an insect pest. Resolve by placing the plant outside, once it is warm enough. Natural predators will show up to eat the scale. That said, place infested trees away from your other fruit trees.
Harvest Lemons
Skin color is no indicator of ripeness. Mamma citrus tree will release her baby ripe fruit into your hand when you gently tug on it. Most lemons start ripening in January and are available into April. If you notice the fruit turning brown on the tree, it is time to harvest the rest.
Thanks for reading – Jacqueline
More Fruit Trees!
May I recommend my book? The Southwest Fruit & Vegetable Guide offers not just growing guides but some of the latest varieties – including ones specifically for raised bed and container growing. Price is what you would pay on Amazon – only when you buy from me you get a signed copy!
From the review:
“In this updated 2nd edition of Southwest Fruit & Vegetable Gardening, you’ll find much-needed advice and practical tips on growing an edible garden, no matter which part of the southwestern US you call home.
Profits from the sale of this book go to the Arizona-based Horticulture Therapy non-profit Tierra del Sol Institute.
My Promise: 100 Percent Organic Content
Grumble. There is so much mis-information out there on the web. Anybody with AI thinks they are a garden writer now days. You will NEVER get AI generated anything from me. Not even story ideas. All ideas and all words are from my own brain and my own fingers. I DO fact check. In fact, I now fact check at least three times – because “truth is the intersection of three lies.” I have found profound inaccuracies in AI. And since I block AI from reading my pages, they are not learning from my writing.
100 percent organic content in my social media as well. My Tiktok and YouTube videos are entirely generated by me. On the static media (Facebook) I may occasionally have slip up and have an AI image – but never on purpose.
Legal
© Article copyright Jacqueline A. Soule. All rights reserved. You must ask permission to republish an entire blog post or article. Okay to use a short excerpt but you must give proper credit. You must include a link to the original post on our site. No stealing photos.
Be the first to reply